We met Benoît d'Onofrio, sommelier and sobrelier. The opportunity to discuss our approach to reintroducing alcohol-free into our moments of sharing and conviviality !
Could you introduce yourself ?
I am sommelier and sobrelier for chef Manon Fleury, currently in residence at the Chalet des Îles in the Bois de Vincennes in Paris 12th.
Sobrelier, what exactly is it ?
In my opinion, it's first and foremost about considering integrating alcohol-free options at the table, as part of meals, offering drinks from appetizers to dessert. It is also a commitment : creating tailor-made drinks for the menu of the chef I have been working for several months.
Is it a personal approach, a request from clients or does it come from the meeting with Manon Fleury ?
It’s a bit of all that ! It took shape in the context of my job as a sommelier, when I was confronted with a client who did not want to drink alcohol. I found myself at a dead end since I couldn't respond to his request. I realized that it was time for me to reposition myself in my profession to be able to respond to all types of people likely to come to the restaurant. It also took a stronger root when I made the decision to stop drinking myself. At that time, there was a sense of urgency to be able to do my job while maintaining my convictions. It was some time later that I met Manon Fleury, to whom I explained the idea of doing work around alcohol-free products.
When you work on your recipes, what do you do ?
First of all, Manon and her colleagues share with me a theoretical recipe sheet. On that basis, I begin to consider different ingredients that I will include in the composition and which will suit the different aromatic markers. When the recipe takes shape after various tests in the kitchen, I may have the opportunity to taste the dish which allows me to adjust my recipe and tackle a slightly more organic composition exercise. Following this first start of work, there is the possibility of recovering certain ingredients used by the kitchen, which will not be destined to be part of the composition of the plate.
A real co-product approach !
Exactly. It's a true embodiment of the working philosophy, more than the kitchen, it is the entity of the restaurant. This opportunity to create unique drinks helps bridge the gap between the kitchen and the dining room and break down that invisible barrier. It’s a much more collective and global work.
Between each recipe there is real in-depth work. How long does it take you to create a recipe ?
Before being convinced by the reliability of a recipe and the desire to no longer touch it... From experience, so far, this has never happened ! There are always adjustments that we want to make depending on our mood, the new products available, the kitchen recipes which often change.
I understand that each recipe is unique. You have been a sommelier for several years. When developing your recipes, consciously or not, do you keep consumer classics in mind ?
No way ! I leave room for all my desires and make the most of this space of freedom that the alcohol-free world offers today. This world has been neglected by professionals for too long and therefore little exposed to consumers. I think we can try to disrupt consumption habits but also taste habits. The goal is to offer a new experience to consumers, thanks to a food/drink pairing.
Personally, you no longer consume alcohol, what do you do on a daily basis ? Do you create recipes, or do you buy existing drinks ?
Usually, I am asked to create drinks myself, but like many people, I need to operate a dichotomy between work time and personal time, between professional creations and sometimes being able to take a break.
We are talking more and more about alcohol-free. We are coming out of Dry January. Is it just a fad or is it a trend that's here to stay ?
There is a bit of both. However, the place that Dry January takes is becoming more and more important, especially in the media space. It presents itself as a way to question one's relationship with alcohol. This is very different from forced abstinence. It is a questioning of oneself and of certain automatisms that we have. Do I drink alcohol to unwind ? Do I pour a drink out of habit ? Can we change a consumption ritual ? It’s also time to make room for alternatives. It’s a great showcase for new products. Dry January has the merit of making people more curious.
For you, what is a good product ? Does it have to meet certain criteria ?
The balance. There is an element of sensitivity and personal taste, but I always try to maintain an element of objectivity. In a drink, there must be a relationship between acidity, bitterness and roundness. These three notes should always stand out in relation to each other, without overwhelming each other.
How Benoît D'Onofrio would serve a glass of Rouge Ardent "Alone, in a chilled glass or with an ice cube. It's an aperitif that is sufficient in itself !"
You are in residence at Chalet des Iles. If you could tell us about just one recipe, what would it be ?
If I have to choose one, it is a cold extraction of pear juice with an infusion in this juice of heliantis and oca from Peru which are tubers close to Jerusalem artichoke. After a first clarification of this juice, an infusion of old bread is added, which was ordered for the previous service and was not used, which is roasted. This drink accompanies a dish of fermented cabbage and bacon.
What do you think the essential ingredient for a successful aperitif is ?
People. There must be conviviality. And good products !
If everything was possible, who would be the 3 people with whom you would like to have an aperitif ?
Jean-Paul Belmondo, for his stories and anecdotes about the 7th art, Nina Simone for music and my paternal grandfather whom I never had the chance to know and who would surely have a lot to say about my family roots .
For the music during the aperitif it would therefore be Nina Simone ?
Yes surely ! But why not with a B side of titles that have never been marketed.
it could be Nina Simone..
A person to follow on the networks ?
My former colleague and nonetheless friend Lucien Salomon who opened a restaurant with his colleague Sarah in Marseille, the Regain restaurant at 53, Rue Saint-Pierre. It is a restaurant which receives a great success, well deserved.
An address to discover ?
Regain for Marseille and the Chalet des Iles for Paris.
Is it too early to talk about new upcoming projects ?
For the moment yes, nothing has been completely done yet.
Where can we follow you to stay up to date ?
On Instagram ! I have two accounts related to my 2 activities : @le_wining which is an account dedicated mainly to my work around alcoholic drinks and @le_sobrelier , focused on my activity on non-alcoholic drinks.
Photo credit : Mickaël Bandassak